Hello World! Welcome Friends! Installing a toilet partition is simple, even if you do not have a manual. When you buy a pack of toilet partitions set, you will already have all the required equipment. The hardest thing to do when doing it on your own is when it is time to drill out the holes. For this, you may need some help, especially if you are installing a large and heavy stainless-steel toilet partition. If you decide to go on a do-it-your-own route when installing toilet partitions, then it is best if you opt for a plastic-type of toilet partition.
The installation procedure for toilet partition dividers can be affected by various site conditions. It is necessary for the installers to be informed about the uneven floor and wall surfaces to perform a stable and level installation. It is the responsibility of the manufacturer to provide maintenance and warranty details to their customers.
For detailed information, you may refer to the layout of your bathroom area and dimensional data. Note that there is a specific relationship between the panels and the pilasters wherein panels do not automatically fall at the pilaster’s centerline.
The instructions below for toilet partitions installation are based on the most typical unit setup. There are other configurations as well, such as units between two walls or between two standing tables.
Installing Toilet Partitions
1. If you want to add a new toilet partition, it is imperative that you clean the bathroom first to ensure that it is free from any debris.
2. Decide the type of toilet partition you are going to use – whether it would be plastic, metal, or stainless steel. Installation of the toilet partition will begin at the wall and floor brackets. The brackets can be fastened to the wall and the floor. Through drilling a hole, you can secure the partition too.
Fastening the Brackets:
- Establish the front centerline by getting the total dimensions of the compartment and by deducting 16 mm (5/8). Then use the drawings of the final layout to determine locations.
- You just have to drill 22 mm floor bracket drill holes at the edge of the pilaster positions as shown on the layout sketch for you to fasten Floor brackets and to make it stable as you proceed to the next step
3. Next would be the panel positioning. Simply put the panel over the 30-centimeter support above the board. You can then easily put the panel on the bracket (even without the need to fasten it first). The pilaster will be ready after you place the panel, and the pilasters will then be set according to your preferences. The panels and the pilasters will then be stabilized together. The sheet metal screws (the one with U bracket) are used to fasten and drill the pilaster into the plate. It is good to note that when lifting the pilaster, there is no need to prime the door opening.
Installing the Panel:
- Fasten two-panel brackets onto the wall using your centerline positions. The bracket centers should 18″ and 64″ from the floor. Put the panel and place in brackets. There should be a gap of, at least, 1/2″ between the wall and frame.
- Drill one hole and fasten it through the top bracket.
Installing a Wall Pilaster:
- At the centerline, you have to fasten two “F” brackets to the board.
- Bracket centers should be 18” and 64″ from the floor.
- Put pilaster in brackets of the wall and over brackets of floors.
- Set up the hardware and leveling tool for the floor table, pilaster the plumb, and tighten.
- Fasten pilaster to brackets on the wall.
- Lastly, you will have to attach upper and lower hinges to the pilaster wall.
Fastening “U” Bracket to Pilaster:
- Position next pilaster on floor brackets and label back panel centerline.
- Label the bracket centers from the floor – it should be at 18″and 64″.
- Mark the holes to be drilled on the brackets as a layout guide.
- Remove pilaster and fasten “U” brackets from floor brackets.
Installing Pilaster:
- Make sure that the front and back edges of the shoe are parallel to each other for a perfect fit pilaster shoe. But if they are not, then add hand pressure to the shoe’s back surface until parallel to the front and back edges.
- Slide the pilaster onto pilaster shoes.
- Install the leveling tool and the pilaster location on the floor brackets (you do not have to tighten it yet with the “U” brackets that carry the stand).
- Drill a hole and fasten it through the top bracket.
- Put a female cam in the door and install a lock, and a hook or a bumper cover.
4. Next would be the installation of a hanging door.
- Attach the male camera into the bottom hinge and the lower door on it.
- Put upper hinge pin with thread.
- Lose the nut of the male camera unit, set the door at the appropriate angle, and tighten the lock and make sure it is compatible with latch.
- You may want to pre-install headrail at this point without fastening, to aid lining up or spacing the pilasters.
5. Now, install the other compartments.
- For all the remaining compartments, you have to make sure that all pilasters are fastened to floor brackets, add all other fasteners, and repeat steps 3-10 as needed. Take note that it is highly suggested to install one compartment at a time, including the door.
6. The last step would be to secure the handrail brackets.
- Fasten handrail brackets to the wall. You can modify it depending on the floor condition.
Setting Up the Handrail:
- Install handrail into pilaster tops and slide into the brackets.
- Fasten the headrail to pilasters and then screws inside the compartment and wall brackets on the handrail. If necessary, set up the handrail end cap.
- Make sure to set leveling tools to guarantee that all are level and to secure all of its components.
- Lastly, drill and fasten all of other panel holes into their appropriate brackets.
Click the links below for any posts you have missed:
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What to Know About Luxury Vinyl Tiles
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